WELCOME Empanada land...I mean Argentina jeje
It was evening and not much probable I'll get out of here today. To get myself into a good mood I devoured some empanadas, had a liter of Cola (hehe), I mean liter of Quilmes Stout and a gang of ice creams... Yeah that was good...
For the night I headed out by the river to do some wild camping. It wasn't the best spot as it turned out. The ground was sand and there were strong gusts of wind. Hmmmmmmm... No time and no more daylight to look for another spot. I guess I will have to dust myself off in the morning.
Sunday, 06 II 2011
Carretera Austral No. 7 was behind me and Ruta 40 ahead. Bus ticket to my next destination was 245 ARS. It wasn't a fortune but in the spirit of adventure I wanted to hitchhike.
As I was heading out of town I got a ride from a trucker to Perrito Moreno. It looked deserted and not like anything at all. I walked through it and I posted myself right outside hoping to go south.
4:30h of waiting was rewarded as a trucker Adolpho ("Kaka seca.") going to pick up some cows offered me a ride. The views were totally different here. Argentinian pampa or steppe stretched for horizon. Almost as a desert with mountain peaks in a far distance. There was nothing else but rocks and some thorny shrubs. The road was bad. Now I know why not many people travel this section. It took us 6h to travel just 230km (143mi). Nevertheless I was moving in the direction I wanted. Unfortunately he was heading off into the direction of PN Perrito Moreno so I was dropped off in the middle of nowhere (literally) at dusk.
The temperature was dropping fast as the sun disappeared at the horizon. Few more minutes of waiting and it'll be time to set up camp and dive into my sleeping bag and get warm. Some locals passed by and they drove me for about 30 minutes to a perfect camping spot by a river. To my surprise I even found a grassy patch hidden from the wind. Now I was about 400km (250mi) away from El Chaltén which was my next trekking spot.
I had no idea that there were ostriches down here. Did you?
Monday, 07 II 2011
With almost no cars on the RN 40 yesterday I thought I will be baking in the sun till the evening as the bus rolls by and I'll be forced to take it. I was wrong and really happy about it. On the other side of the river there was a couple from Switzerland camping with a car. They were packing up and agreed to take me with them YEAH!
It was a looooooong ride as we couldn't drive too fast on this rubble. At least they are putting the asphalt down at a slow rate right now. Soon enough.
We got to El Chaltén around 4:30pm. Good time to settle on a campground (25 ARS), eat some empanadas, drink a cold Quilmes Stout and resupply the food stash for the trek.
This place supposed to be hikers/climbers paradise with Cerro Fitz Roy towering above with pretty much vertical walls. Even though you can do day hikes to almost all of the spots I decided to go out for four days and explore the area in depth.
https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ArgentinaRN40AlSur#
Tuesday, 08 II 2011
I guess leaving around 11am is my trend hehe. I headed up towards campamento Poincenot and made a little detour to laguna Capri. The views from the trail were super pleasant. I would go in and out of a sparse forest to catch a glimpse of the mountain towers. A short stop at Piedras Blancas was something not to miss. Hanging glacier in its glory. Even some mini iceberg broke in half in front of my eyes. It looked small above but then the masses appeared from under the water. Pretty spectacular stuff. To my surprise I've met again Lidia and Marcus from Germany whom I have met a month ago in the mountains around Bariloche. They were just chillin' on the rock taking in the glacier's beauty hehe. Buen viaje amigos :)))
I kept going all the way to Piedra del Fraile. Part of that valley is a private property and the owners decided to capitalize on the fact that you can access amazing trails from there. They made a camping for which they charge 40 ARS. That's fine but if you don't want to camp they want 50 ARS just to pass. That is just wrong. I decided to take the camping option as it was getting late and the next day I could tackle Cerro Electrico (1,500m - 5,000ft climb) with just a daypack and not pay anything extra.
After a thermos of mate I headed out for an evening stroll. All I wanted was to recon the trailhead for Cerro Electrico for tomorrow as I was planning to head out at dawn. I kept going and going hopping over many stream runoffs. Of course I decided to go off trail. I started to get closer to some boulder hill so why not climb it and see what's on the other side. Unfortunately there was another boulder hill a bit farther behind the first one. What's behind that one??? What a surprise, another boulder hill to climb. At this time I caught a glimpse of a glacier in the distance and there was no way of turning back until I see it in as close as possible. Of course I ended up scaling steep, not secure boulder slopes and powering through thorny bushes. I was moving fast since I didn't have anything with me. For some reason there was always another hill/ridge to climb and look over. My curiosity and my will to accomplish the objective got the best of me and I couldn't just stop. Also, when will I come back here again?! I don't want to miss out on something cool and spectacular. It was getting late and I was pushing the daylight envelope. My headlamp was chillin' in a tent along with all the food I wanted to devour right about now. No turning back, I just have to pick up the pace. It can't be much longer... right?!
I finally got to the upper glacier laguna. The last of sunlight was still illuminating the steel grey slabs in red and orange. It was a sight to see ... click ... into my memory. Too bad I didn't have much time to take it in. In fact I shouldn't even be there at that time. I was about 1:30h into the evening stroll and darkness will be upon me in about 45min. Ups... The moon was lurking above one of the giants and it was a very thin crescent. Not gonna give me almost any light. I guess it's time to do some jogging. I did not want to get stuck out there in the darkness in between all the rocks I can trip on or twist/break my ankle. Off I went like a gazelle jumping over and around the dark sharp massives. It was a race with the darkness. Faster, faster, FASTER!!! Straining my eyes I rushed back to camp. Last meters I covered almost blind but I made it hehe. Perfect timing. The views were well worth the effort. Now it's time to pig out on potato pure with tuna...
Wednesday, 09 II 2011
Bright and early to beat the heat I headed out at 7am after chowing down that delicious bowl of chocolate oatmeal. All I had was a daypack with lunch and some warm clothing.
The climb was steep. I mean almost vertical. It didn't let up. There is a camping about 2h up. Super nice place to spend the night but you have to work super hard to log your pack up there.
There was snow travel from there at first and then it turned into loose rocks of all shapes and sizes. Exciting? YES but also really sketchy and dangerous. Not your everyday walk in the park. No trail either. Just a pass to go on. Pick your trail at your own risk kinda thing. The views were already stunning from the camp but... once I finally got to the pass and looked back... WOW!!! I had the view north into the Campo Hielo Sur for miles. My mouth was wide open and I think I started drooling a bit it was open so long hehe. Snowy fields, ice and peaks rising up from these masses are my favorite views by far. It is inhabitable, unreachable, something pure and undisturbed... Laying dormant claiming the land uncontended...
I couldn't see over to the other side real well due to a big snowy mound. No problem I'll just walk across it and take a peak. It wasn't too far. I took few steps and sank to my waist - Oh crap!!! Next time I might fall deeper and not be able to get out. I hurried back to the safety of rocks. Next time with some snow shoes lol.
You can't get this view from any other trail. These are the views that CAN'T be missed. From the high camp there was another climbable saddle to offer slightly different views. I chose not to go there even though it wouldn't take me too long. On purpose I left it for another time. The views in this part of the world mesmerize me and I HAVE TO come back.
The way down is always harder. Not to mention that the gusts of wind would press you down to the rocks. I would have to push hard against it and then it would suddenly let up. If you weren't ready for it you could easily tumble forward. The way to the bottom was a knee buster. I wish I would already have a paraglider to fly down. Soon enough...
I was tired but I gathered my stuff and headed for campamento Poincenot about 3h away. In the middle I had to make an hour break to drink some mate while swinging in the hammock. Long day but what a day...
Thursday, 10 II 2011
Hike for today: Laguna de los Tres. Spectacular views of Monte Fitz Roy and the surrounding peaks. A bit of work to get up the hill but there it is in it's glory! Simply amazing... The ice/snow is crawling down from almost all the slopes... I want MORE!!! There is Cerro Madsen to the north that can put me closer and more importantly higher. It is calling me and I'm answering. With time on my hands I was off on a mission to get to its peak. It didn't look too inviting though. Again, there was no trail and rock scrambling all the way. I'm gonna be a pro by the time I'll be done with Patagonia hehe.
Higher and higher I went. Snow travel was safer so I transferred over. I had to be very careful not slip or I would slide all the way where I would be stopped by jagged rocks!!! I don't think that would be pleasant with the eye tearing speed I would reach them. Gators would be nice as I didn't need to cool off my feet with snow at every step. Oh well, next time I'll be more prepared.
The slope got steep to the point where I had to use my hands as well. The snow was cold and quickly numbed my hands even though scorching hot adrenaline was pumping through my veins. I finally got to the rocky part close to the peak.
"I really shouldn't be here!!!"
"No worries, keep going."
"Shut up adrenaline junkie!"
"Stop whining like a little girl and keep on, you're almost there. Don't you want to see what's on the other side?!"
"I hate you ... I love you!!!"
"That's right, you know you want this hehe..."
All the slabs/rocks/boulders had cracks and gaps. It looked like one big jenga. One rock can let this whole mountain go to rubble. Can I grab this one? Can I pull myself on this one? Unknown is the only sure thing...
I got there...wait! There is another peak a bit higher but separated by a huge gap. To get to that peak I would need climbing equipment or go a lot lower and climb up from a different side. Ok, I will settle for this peak this time but the next time it's on. Time to relax and take it in...
My seat was hanging over a cliff face and of course it had cracks with three inch gaps. Will it hold me or will it plunge down??? This could be my first... and last base jump. As everybody knows you don't need a parachute to skydive. You need it to do it twice. Somehow I didn't find it that funny at that very moment (...holding breath...) uff... it held my weight. I was sitting there looking at the towering Monte Fitz Roy with butterflies in my stomach. I felt like I stepped over with one foot to the other side... Adrenaline is overpowering. The life juice for this DZIK...
I made it down. I'm relieved but I want MORE! I have problems. I think I've reached an age when I don't think I'm invincible any more. I got to the age when I think my time is running out to do everything I love and crave... so the effect is the same.
Am I stupid? Crazy? Probably a little of both. The most important thing for me is LIFE WITHOUT REGRETS!!! I don't believe it's achievable but I'll do my best to get as close to it as possible. The meaning of life...
I moved my camp by the laguna Torre to campamento De Agostini (2:30h).
Friday, 11 II 2011
The winds were hauling and clouds would cover up some peaks. I went to the mirador but that was a fight within itself. At points I was leaning at 45 degrees using all my leg muscles to take step after step. Few times I could feel myself getting lighter as the wind almost blew me off the laguna rim. There was another glacier to look at and at the mirador I could see more details that fascinate me.
Back at Chalten I had my favorite Argentine dinner consisting of empanadas and a liter of Quilmes Stout jeje. I can live just on empanadas and I won't get sick of them :))) Get in my belly!!!
https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ArgentinaCerroFitzRoyTreks#
Saturday, 12 II 2011
I didn't even wait an hour and a nice French couple took me to El Calafate.
Black clouds were hanging around so I stayed at a hostel (30 ARS) instead of camping. I made the right choice as it rained in the evening. I also had time to organize my pictures.
Sunday, 13 II 2011
With a group of 6 Israelis and 2 Hindu-English we rented two cars to see Glaciar Perito Moreno (100 ARS entrance). You can take a bus which costs 100 ARS there and back or go in a remis (taxi) for 70 ARS. It did cost us the same as remis but we were on our own time and I got to drive YEAH! It was a Volkswagen Gol. Not a beast and at 120 km/h it would shake like crazy but it took us to the glacier and back which was located 80km (50mi) away from El Calafate.
The weather was crappy and the rain kept increasing its intensity as the day went by. It didn't matter too much. The glacier put us to our knees. This vast blue ice field rose to 60m (200ft) high and stretched beyond the horizon. On and off there was a sound of explosion and huge chunks of ice would fly off and plunge into the water. Once, even a piece of the whole height broke off and sunk like a Titanic. Incredible stuff! This glacier is not receding. It grows and shrinks and is considered stable.
https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ArgentinaGlaciarPerritoMorreno#
Monday, 14 II 2011
There were no tickets left for the morning bus so we got on the one at 4pm heading to Puerto Natales, Chile (6h - 80 ARS). Before that though I stuffed my face with gang of empanadas (4 ARS/each) and ate few portions of ice creams. aaaaaahhhhhh...that ought to do it :)))
Argentinian-Chile border, I will be crossing it few times on this trip as both countries share the incredible mountain range...
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