Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Chile (part 2)

Tuesday, 11 I 2011

The weather was crap and it was raining on and off. I was staying in a cozy hostel (6,500 CLP) so I decided to spend another night there. It was time to wash my clothes, answer some e-mails, plan the next few days and walk/limp around town.
To get down south I had to take a boat sooner or later. I decided to visit some parks along the way so I had to book a boat ride from Hornopiren to Caleta Gonzalo. They sail only 3 times a week on Sun, Mon and Tue at 9am and there are only 38 spots available. For this upcoming batch there were only 5 seats left for Mon so I took one of them (6h - 10,000 CLP). This gave me few days to wander through some parks on the way.

Wednesday, 12 I 2011

Even though my ankle was still hurting as I walked I couldn't sit still and do nothing. PN Alerce Andino sounded like it can be a relaxing trip without whole lot of walking. I got my stuff together and headed out to Correntoso (1h - 1,000 CLP) around noon with all my belongings. I wasn't gonna go back to Puerto Montt and just keep moving south bit by bit to Hornopiren.
From Correntoso there were 13km (8mi) to get to the park entrance. After about an hour of walking I got a ride to the gate (1,000 CLP). Clouds were hanging low and looked over saturated with bad mojo. I'm here so I'm going in no matter what.
It was another one of the impenetrable wet and muddy forests. Forget about stepping off a trail or putting your tent anywhere other then an established campsite. The trail would climb sharply with stairs in place here and there. It then dropped down again just to climb up once more. It did make you work for it. I passed by some huge Alerces dating up to 3,000 years old. They are extremely slow growers.
The first and really the only camping was located on rio Sargazo a bit past the lake Sargazo. The camp grew bigger with a couple: Inti (Chilean) and Aurelie (French); and four childhood friends: Juan Pablo, Gonzalo, Diego and Mauricio from Puerto Montt.
Luckily it started raining after we set up camp and not before.


Thursday, 13 I 2011

I woke up several times to the sound of rain pounding on my tent so I would just go back to sleep. Finally it stopped around noon and we were able to get out of the tents and welcome the day. After a sluggish breakfast/lunch we headed out to laguna Fria just with daypacks. Inti strained one of his leg muscles so with Aurelie they decided to stay back.
The trail got even more narrow and less maintained. After a long rain the ground was saturated with water and often somebody's boot would disappear under. It was an interesting trail not offering views but the lush vegetation was something to look at. Tree barks overgrown with leaves and moss created walls as well as the roof above. I started having flashbacks from Paso de las Nubes. Of course it started raining. It took us 1:50h to get to laguna Fria. There was almost no access to it. We caught a glimpse of foggy ridges in the background and that was it. Wet and a little cold there was nothing else to do but to head back making a little detour to Catedral de Alerces. It was a worth while side trail as the fat oldies made you feel as if you traveled back in time.
Campfires were not allowed but we had one anyway. We wanted to dry or boots and some clothes. Besides the warmth from the fire made us feel good. I was invited for a plate of delicious spaghetti. Drinking mate and some tequila we chatted away into the night. Good times.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChilePNAlerceAndino#

Friday, 14 I 2011

To our surprise even some sun came out and greeted us in the morning. We were able to dry our tents a bit and headed back. The trail got even more muddy and slippery but we managed without big falls.
From the park entrance colihuachos would swarm us and not leave us alone. It was time for a revenge so Mauricio would catch, cut them open and pull out a drop size clear bubble from their big fat bodies. It turned out to be really sweet hehe. Lucky us there was a van passing by that took us all only about half an hour or so into our walk. It was going to take us all the way to Puerto Montt but it got a flat tire and we took a bus from there.
Juan Pablo invited me for the night to his house. Buena gente! At night we went to Gonzalo's house were we were practicing 'NA ZDROWIE!' and 'DO DNA!' untill almost 5am jeje. Fun times.


Saturday, 15 I 2011

We had a late start after a late night. I was finally able to upload long overdue photos from Bolivia and post these adventure on my blog.
Gonzalo had to work night so I spent a pleasant evening chatting with his parents.

Sunday, 16 I 2011

Carretera Austral No. 7 started in Puerto Montt and went all the way south to Villa O'Higgins. It was build by General/Dictator Pinochet. Some say that this was the only good thing he have done.
I went to Hornopiren in the afternoon (4h - 4,000 CLP). It is a small port town. It was raining along the way and big, bad dark clouds were hanging above. Since I had to be up early I decided not to camp and stayed in Hostel Nicole (5,000 CLP).
Entrance to PN Hornopiren was 10km (6.2mi) from the town itself. I had initial plans to visit it but this rainy weather and boat schedule ruled it out. Something for next time.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChileHornopiren#

Monday, 17 I 2011

My boat left at 9am. Dark rain clouds did not disappear and followed us all the way along with the cold wind. I couldn't decide if I wanted to attempt to camp in PN Pumalín in this unpredictable weather or not.
Caleta Gonzalo was not even a pueblito. It was a place where the ferry could dock in (only a concrete ramp) and there were few cabañas (75,000 CLP). Nothing else.
I have decided to go up a Laguna Tronador trail anyway and not go directly to Chaiten. The beginning was about 13km (8mi) south of Caleta Gonzalo at the Tronador bridge. It took me straight up a verysteep hill where I had to climb slippery ladders, hop logs and avoid stepping into mud pools that were just waiting to swallow my boot or my whole leg. I passed a spectacular small waterfall and the rest I was hiking in a super dense rainforest. Of course it started raining again and I regretted my decision to hit the trail. Well, I started it and it's not in my nature to turn back around before seeing the end. In about 1:20h I got to the laguna and...I got pretty disappointed. A rocky beach was about 2m (6ft) wide and a tree growing out of the water would cover almost the whe view. The trail ended???! Where the hell is the small campground the Lonely Planet wrote about and I decided to camp at??? I took off my backpack as it was impossible to squeeze through this forest. After some snaking around, over and under fallen trees and wild vegetation I found it. The forest decided to take it back eating the trail and overgrowing the area. There was no way I was going to get there with my backpack. There was not much else I could do as to turn around and head back. I was wet and angry. I hiked it in these conditions with all my stuff for nothing. There weren't even cool views as clouds and fog took over the mirador from which the volcano Michimahuida can be seen.
It was late and almost no chance for any passing car. I was lucky enough to meet a group of four youngsters from Santiago to give me a lift to the campground in Caleta Gonzalo where they were staying (1,500 CLP). The campground was really nice and cared for. It was still raining but at least there was a huge covered gazebo with tables were we could cook and hide under.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChileParquePumalin#

Tuesday, 18 I 2011

The rain said goodmorning...grrrrrrrrrrrrr!!! Today there was one more ferry coming in for the week around 2pm. That was probably my only chance to get out from this rainy forest and not get stuck for 4 more days or so. It was still raining. It was cold. Family of 4 from Santiago had mercy and took me with them - YEAH! They would even stop to take some pictures along the way and hike two trails - score!
My next stop was Chaiten. Two and a half year ago Volcan Chaiten erupted all of a sudden bringing doom to this small town. Nobody even considered it really a volcano. Ash fell from the sky and the river jumped out of its banks. The town got buried. Only some people came back as of now. They are in the process of setting up electricity, telephone service and water. After that more will come back but right now it is somewhat of a ghost town. By the river, where the biggest destruction hit you can still see the houses half buried under the ground, furniture inside in pieces and belongings scattered around.
It kept on raining and raining and raining so I stayed at an alojamiento to dry my things and not grow a mold.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChileChaiten#

Wednesday, 19 I 2011

I was on a search to find Jack and Patty Schmitt. Friends of a friend of my parents hehe.
I had no luck finding a ride in the morning. There were very few vehicles heading south. I ended up taking a bus at noon to Puerto Cardenas (1h - 1,500 CLP). There I was to find Señora Lusmira who would be able to give me directions to Jack's house. Given that it was a tiny pueblito but the first house I knocked at there she was. As it turned out I had to go back towards Chaiten about 10km (6.2mi) to the bridge on the river Michimahuida There I had to turn west and go for another 2km or so.
I found it! Jack and Patty were super nice. They invited me in, fed me lunch and after a while offered me their guest cabin YEAH!!! This couldn't be a better time as it supposed to keep raining for few more days. Also, if the engine in their VW Bus wouldn't give out I wouldn't find them there.
The place was beautiful!!! Situated right on the fork of Yelcho and Michimahuida rivers away from everything and everybody. No electricity and no phone service - perfect to relax and forget about time...


Thursday, 20 I 2011

Time to sleep in till noon, make a fire in a wood burning stove for heat and finally start the Stieg Larsson trilogy. Big bad black clouds are pouring water from the sky and I'm warm and cozy inside. In your face weather!!!
It stopped raining for a while so we put a motor on Jack's small row boat and headed out in search of salmon. They get up to 50kg (110lb) out here. That's a BIG fish. They come in waves and unfortunately the next wave hasn't started yet. Also the water level was too high. All we did was play with the fishing rod and floated up and down river. Still pretty cool and relaxing.
The weather came in again and I hid in the cabin.


Friday, 21 I 2011

The sky was acting like a shower head at full blast. Doesn't  matter, I'm dry and happy :)))
It stopped for a bit so Jack took me for a tour around the neighborhood. The places out here are pretty awesome with lush green vegetation. The only thing is that it rains like crazy out here annually and it's a little too much for my liking. The most important piece of equipment here are kalosze (rubber boots).


Saturday, 22 I 2011

It rained AGAIN but only in the afternoon. It finally started to clear up. By the evening I could see some of the further scenery. My hopes were up for it to stay like that.
Enough with the rain already!!!

Sunday, 23 I 2011

AHHHHHHH finally nice and sunny morning with only few fluffy white clouds. That's more like it. I went out on the river with Jack without much hopes as the conditions weren't right. As suspected we didn't catch anything but the views were stunning. Snowy peaks looming in the background from both sides and rocky peaks from the other two. Wherever I looked "I like".


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChileJackAndPattySPlace#

Monday, 24 I 2011

Time flew by quick even though I didn't do much for the last 4 days. Time did stop, I recharged myself for next leg of the trip and I'm ready to hit it.
Million THANX to Jack and Patty to have me at their house :)))
Public transportation is very poor or practically non existent in these parts so it's time to wave my thumb at the cars. Hopefully they'll stop and take me down the road.
Today I only wanted to go about 22km (14mi) south to see glacier Yelcho. Three hours waiting, two cars and some walking and I was there. I set up my tent and with a daypack I headed out to touch the ice. After an hour through the jungle like rainforest the trail took a dive under the ice cold glacial water. I wasn't prepared for that so I had to satisfy myself with the view from afar. It was still spectacular and worth the trip. I really like the combination of rock and ice/snow.



Tuesday, 25 I 2011

Two hours waiting in full sun but somebody finally stopped. Little odd when the first question before I could say anything was: "¿De donde eres Tu?" ("Where are you from?") If I would be from Israel I would still be waving my thumb at the following car. There are hundredths of Israeli travelers in these parts. I think they are the biggest group. Throughout this trip I've heard quite a lot of bad stories of misbehavior, lies and not paying for services rendered. Obviously I've met few and I had good impression of them but there are these few that really damage the Israeli reputation.
Another kind traveler and I got to Futaleufu around 4pm. As it turned out the park is 7km (4.4mi) from the city itself. I really didn't feel like walking on the street to get there and then the Conaf worker offered to give me a ride. Que suerte!
This was soooooooooo much better then camping with the tourist hoards in town. Perfect spot above the river with beautiful views of surrounding mountains and nobody in sight.  The only thing was that an owl was screaming late into the night. I had no idea they could scream so loud.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChileEnRouteToFutaleufu#

Wednesday, 26 I 2011

In the late morning I went up to the highest mirador (40 minutes) and had a good view of the surrounding. I could also see the town. The problem with this park is that it doesn't have long hiking routes.
I strolled back to Futa (1:30h). I was planning to resupply food and hitchhike somewhere down south. Instead I met Piotrek and Magda and had beer with them instead.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChilePNFutaleufu#

Thursday, 27 I 2011

The sky looked gloomy and rain was in the air. I did have some luck hitchhiking. With 4 transports of about 40km (25mi) each I got to La Junta where I got stuck. It was raining throughout the day and the night was not an exception. No option for camping in the rain. Alojamiento here I come.


Friday, 28 I 2011

I thought I will not leave La Junta today or ever. There was very little traffic and nobody wanted to stop. My savior came after waiting around for about 4 hours. I was riding in the back of the pickup with his 450 Suzuki cross moto. He was flying down the dirt roads like a maniac. As it turned out there was a motocross race in Puerto Cisnes the following day. I wanted to keep going with him but I've decided to get off at PN Queulat (3,000 CLP). There was yet another glacier to say hi to. Unfortunately there was no possibility to come really close to it. I climbed to the furthest mirador and enjoyed the view. It looked like the water of the waterfalls coming from under the ice was falling in super slow motion. The time slowed down for this 'dying' ice...
Time to camp right besides Carretera Austral and try my thumb luck tomorrow.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChileVentisqueroQueulat#

Saturday, 29 I 2011

WOW a bus! I was just finishing packing up so I rushed to the other side to stop it. That bastard didn't stop even though two people got out few meters earlier at the park's entrance. Two more hours wasted till I got picked up by Santiagans. Next stop Coyhaique.
I gave in. Thermos - 11,500 CLP, bombilla - 2,000 CLP, Yerba mate - 500 CLP, mate on top of the mountain - priceless hehe. More weight to carry around but I've been craving mate for a loooooooong time. Also, since the REI rain jacket started to let water through I bought a poncho.
The cheapest rooms were 7 or 8 luca so we decided to camp for 3.

Sunday, 30 I 2011

Unfortunately it rained all night and it haven't stopped in the morning. We had to pack the tents wet. It did not look too appealing to me since I wanted them to drop me off at the trailhead that went around Cerro Castillo.
The trailhead was only 75km (47mi) away from Coyhaique what was called Las Horquetas Grandes (3,000 CLP). It was cold and raining lightly. Oh well, I have to be optimistic that the weather will change. After a while it got a little better and the sun would pick out from behind the clouds to say hi now and then. That was perfect as I had to cross a freezing ass river three and a half times. Before I would reach the other side my feet hurt as if they were being cut with a knife. The half was because I almost made it across but I slipped on the last rock and washed my shoe off of the mud and dirt. The whole day it was a game of rain gear on, rain gear off, rain gear on, rain gear off - fun times?!
The trail led me through the open valleys, green forrest and glimpses of a river rushing down somewhere. It was very pleasant.
I decided to make a fire as it was getting cold. It was quite a challenge with everything being wet. I succeeded though and all I was missing was the kiełbasa :(


Monday, 31 I 2011

The day started promising. I've decided I'll be getting up around 9:30am and leaving the camps around 11am everyday. I was taking it easy with full relaxation and enjoying the views. I'm on vacation after all.
Hanging glacier welcomed me on the other side of the paso Peñón. I really enjoyed the view while negotiating steep and unstable slope down to the valley. Cerro Castillo showed its towers partially covered in snow and the glacier flowing down the slopes of Cerro Peñón - WOW!!!
I set up camp below laguna Castillo with an awesome views of Cerro Castillo as well as Cerro Peñón. I laid out on the grass and sipped on mate taking in the views. Good relaxing times...
All of a sudden clouds started to roll in. As they covered the sun the temperature dropped as it would jump off the cliff. I warmed myself for a bit with a creamy tomato soup but had to jump into mysleeping bag soon after.


Tuesday, 01 II 2011

Damn, it's raining. Lightly, but still. This was only half bad. As I looked outside I couldn't see much. Thick fog had covered everything and the wind was hauling. The weather here can change in a heartbeat and I could just hope it'll change for the better.
The views from the top of the laguna supposed to be spectacular but all I got were tiny glimpses through the openings of the fog. The worse part was that I couldn't see where was the pass I was suppose to cross. Hmmmmmmm. I would walk a bit, stop and wait for an opening in a fog, make aneducated guess and go a bit more. This game continued all the way to the pass.
It stopped raining, fog went away but wind was still harassing me. To get down into the valley I had to use my rock surfing skills as it was a very steep slope.
The trail up to the campamento Neozelandes took me through beautiful sparse lengua forest. As I got there the clouds opened up again and it started raining cats and dogs. Nothing else to do as to put up my tent in a heartbeat and dive inside. It was only 5pm. I was following the adventures of Blomkvist and Salander till the dark hours.


Wednesday, 02 II 2011

No rain = good. I packed but left my backpack in the tent. I headed out to laguna Duff just with mate. Some clouds started to form but I could still admire the views hairy with jagged peaks, snow and ice.
On the way down, after I grabbed all my stuff without paying too much attention I went the wrong way. The arrows and description of that part mislead me. I didn't see the other way and in effect I climbed one ridge and lost an hour. Oh well, I need to be more alert and not just trek on blindly.
I've decided to sleep in Villa Cerro Castillo in a bed. Not to mention I was due for a shower. I was relaxing in bed drinking mate and then I looked at my watch. 10:30pm!!! and I'm still drinking mate?! Boludo! Great, I couldn't go to sleep till 3am and I was tired.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChileArroundCerroCastillo#

Thursday, 03 II 2011

I was lucky today and after about 20 minutes a Coca-Cola truck stopped and took me all the way to Puerto Rio Tranquilo.
I took a boat tour to Capillas de Marmol (1:30h - 5,000 CLP). Over the years the water worked out caves and even passages in the rocky shore that looked like marble. It was pretty cool to see and float into these caves where we had to duck down.
I tried hitchhiking for two hours but that turned out to be a waste of time. Around 5pm I went to one camping site where I washed some clothes and was able to take a shower (2,500 CLP). There wasn't much sun but the strong wind dried my clothes right out.


https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ChileCapillasDeMarmol#

Friday, 04 II 2011

It rained at night, what's new?! and kept on drizzling throughout the morning. I tried to catch a ride for 5:30h without result. A bus came at 2:30pm so I took it (2,000 CLP). It supposed to take me to Puerto Guadal but as it turned out it dumped me out 13km (8mi) away at a junction with Cochrane. After an hour and a half walking I got a ride to town and that was it for today. Nobody else was going further on east or willing to take me.
With two Israelis (Or and Oren) and a Chilean (Ignacio) we set up camp close to the lake. The night was freezing cold.


Saturday, 05 II 2011

New day and new beginnings. After two hours of waiting around noon a Chilean gold miner? cowboy? offered me a ride in his Suzuki Samurai. As it turned out he was a civil engineer with bushy beard, pale white skin and a funny hat. He was my savior and I am grateful. He took me all the way to Chile Chico stopping very often to take pictures. The views were stunning around the Lago General Carrera. He even offered some hint of danger as he slid his Samurai into a corner (unintentional).
I wasn't interested in staying here so I walked through town and was trying to get a ride to Los Antiguos on Argentine's side. One ride took me to Chilean customs. Then I walked a no man's land for less then an hour and somebody took and dropped me off at the Argentine's customs.