Saturday, 01 I 2011
After a quick customs and warm welcome to Argentina around 5pm we hit Paso de las Nubes trail. There is a reason why they call it a pass of the clouds. Not even half an hour into the trek the clouds opened up and dropped tons of water on us. In addition we would pick up all the water from the bushes and trees as the trail was overgrown and very narrow. It looked like not that many people walk it to battle with these harsh conditions. We quickly geared up in all of our rain gear and kept on going. The forrest transformed almost into a jungle. Fallen trees, bogs, swamps, slippery logs, mud and rivers of water paved our trail. We couldn't move fast and after a while rain mixed with sweat would get almost everywhere. We were not such happy campers but the only way out was forward. I almost broke my left hand index finger as I tried to stop my fall and my arm dove into the muddy water up to my elbow where more obstacles were just waiting for me. Luckily as it turned out it only got bruised and not broken.
Past 9pm we finally arrived at the campsite with awesome views of the glacier Frias. The rain stopped for now as well. There were big tents up for rent. Since there was nobody there (probably due to New Year) we occupied one of them. Finally we could get into some dry clothing and feel good again ahhhhhhhh...
Sunday, 02 I 2011
We were not in a hurry this morning which turned out to be a mistake but about that later. At the leisurely pace we ate, packed and headed out around 11am. Right in time as a person taking care of the camp got there. Too late too charge us though hehe. Steep climb of 500 vertical meters welcomed us up to the Paso de las Nubes (1435m - 4,700ft). Thick vegetation was guarding the views so without much delay we started our descent. Of course it started raining and only stopped occasionally. We came across a valley that was totally flooded. There was no other way as to march right through it with our boots on and all. We would walk like that for probably half an hour or so up to our knees at points. This valley culminated with a fast flowing river crossing up to our waists. We wanted adventure and we got it hehe.
We finally got to Pampa Linda at 5:20pm just to find out that the only daily bus to get us out of there left 20min ago. Great, now we have to wait here a whole day tomorrow. We stayed at the local hostel (40 ARS dorm) where we met Andrzej. A polish descent Argentinian. He even knew polish pretty well and we spent some time conversing with him.
https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ArgentinaPasoDeLasNubes#
Monday, 03 I 2011
Since the bus to Bariloche would come at 5pm we had time to dry our clothes, boots and backpacks. The weather was iffy so we didn't want to go anywhere far not to get wet again and to take in the clothes that were drying outside. We went up the road towards Monte Tronador but came back running as it started raining again.
At last we got to Bariloche (2h - 50 ARS). To our surprise almost all the hostels were full. The prices for dormitory were 60-70 ARS! We finally found one and started planning where to go since Mateusz only had two days left before he had to return to Santiago and fly back home to Poland. Also, my bro treated me to a steak dinner. Dziex Bracie!
Tuesday, 04 I 2011
Before we headed out for any hike we had to wash our clothes (15 ARS/small bag - 2h), resupply food stash and Mateusz had to buy his bus ticket back to Chile.
We decided to do a short section of Nahuel Huapi Traverse. We started hiking up from Villa Catedral (45min - 7 ARS) at 2pm. Powering up via Arroyo Van Titter we got to Refugio Frey in 2:40h. The views were stunning. Super steep, sharp and jagged peaks would catch your eye wherever you looked. This area is also very popular with rock climbers. I would see many climbers attack the rock and my fingers were itching wanting the same. Next time I guess...
There was waaaaaaay too many people for my liking but the views made up for it.
Wednesday, 05 I 2011
We're on vacation so without any rush we headed out at 11am. We soon found a better camping spot away from the hordes of hikers would be near laguna Schmoll or even better one at Cancha de Futbol. Technically it's not allowed but... The trail split there and instead of heading to Refugio Jacob we traversed towards the ski lifts. Instead of taking the easy (ski chair) way down we first skied the snow patches on our boots, then surfed the rocks of the ski slopes and finally took the lift maintenance dirt road all the way down to Villa Catedral.
https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ArgentinaCerroCatedral#
Thursday, 06 I 2011
Nara Bracie, do nastepnej wspólnej Dzik-iej wycieczki!!!
I quickly resupplied and rented crampons along with an ice-axe. I was determined to do the whole 4-day Nahuel Huapi Traverse. I was told that the third day required climbing/scrambling, snow travel, route finding and more. In my head instead of 'hard and dangerous' I heard 'adventurous and super fun' hehe. This is the kind of stuff I'm seeking out and can't say no to.
As I was about to leave Albergue Gaucho an Israeli guy named Kfir approached me and asked if he can join me. Little hesitant, after a quick chat I decided why not. We agreed that if it's not working we'll split up on the trail. Funny thing was that he actually lived in Los Angeles for the past 4 years hehe. He wasn't ready at all with anything but there was time. I totally forgot about a normal 4h siesta time and when we wanted to exchange my crampons for another ice-axe we realized that the store is closed from 1 to 5pm. Kfir also needed food and rent a tent. The slide was more then I wanted and we finally hit the trail at 7pm. It was the exactly same one I did with Mateusz two days earlier up to Refugio Frey. I wanted to camp in one of the places I've mentioned before further up but we arrived at Frey at 10pm and there was no sense hiking at night and missing the magnificent views.
Friday, 07 I 2011
In today's route to Refugio Jacob I was surprised how steep were some of the descents/ascents on loose rocks and dirt. It took us more time then it should as Kfir overestimated his condition for mountain hiking a bit. He would go slowly but surely though. Let's not forget that our fuel for the hike was Dulce de Leche!!! jeje This stuff is great!!! From now on I'm not going out to the mountains without it LOL.
We got to Jacob in the evening hours. There we were shown pictures of the route leading to laguna Negra and some land marks to watch out for. We had to register, sign wavers that we declined a guide, that we were warned of the dangers, difficulty and that we have enough experience. Done and done! Kfir was never sure if he'll do this section because of his broken thumb. He decided not to do it and hike out via Arroyo Casa de Piedra the next day. He made the right decision as you need both hands for that section. See ya in LA buddy!
Saturday, 08 I 2011
This section of the traverse is not done by many people due to its difficulty. I couldn't wait to get out there and make my tracks. The mountains looked very impressive waiting for me to climb them. I've accepted the challenge and left Refugio Jacob past 8am in this cold and windy morning.
First section of the trail required rock climbing/scrambling to get up onto the ridge. I loved every second of it. The presence of danger made it so much more attractive to me. I longed for some adrenaline. Soon after this first climb I got a dose I really want looking for. It's pretty scary even when I think of it now.
I climbed the first face and was scaling the top of it. I touched a huge boulder trying to walk past it and as it turned out it was hanging on a thread. That mother started rolling onto me!!! I tried catching and stopping it but it was way to heavy. I just cut up my hands and didn't even slow it down. My right leg got really twisted an trapped underneath it. I couldn't take it out and it got really hot. I got scared but remained calm. Panic is the last thing you want. I tried moving the boulder with my bloody hands but it wouldn't move a hair. Luckily I was able to move some smaller rocks next to it and wiggle my foot free. I didn't know if it was broken or not. The rule is that you can't take your shoe off. If it would be broken it would swell up right up, you wouldn't be able to put your boot back on and keep on walking. In the situation like this you have to keep walking to the best of your abilities without stopping. At the time I wasn't sure but as it turned out it wasn't broken. I was really lucky as it could have easily break my leg, trap me under or even worse, push me off the cliff face I was negotiating.
I did not like the idea of climbing down with one leg and I was told that this first part is the hardest so I decided to keep on going. A bit down the trail Thomas from Bariloche gave me his walking stick. It came in very handy and saved me from falling down many times. Thanx a million!!! This was the most technical trail I have done (given my condition) with slopes of about 55 degrees on loose rocks, snowy ridges and wetlands. I have no idea how I got through that with one leg. Every time I stopped to rest a bit or eat something it was harder to start up again and my leg would hurt more and more. I have to say it was very scary. On the other hand the views were breathtaking. I could see many different ridges some with snow and some without as far as the eye could see...
Of course I didn't make it to laguna Negra. I had to take the Arroyo Goye down. I stopped at the campground about 15min down from the junction to laguna Negra. It was 5pm and I was tired limping around. I made camp. My foot was pretty purple.
Unfortunately I couldn't finish this traverse as intended so I'll have to come back and do it some other time.
Sunday, 09 I 2011
I took my sweet time with everything and headed down to Colonia Suiza around noon. It took me about 4h to get there. I was planning on returning to Bariloche today but I found a bed in a peaceful place for only 35 ARS. The whole 'town' was build on both sides of one road and it suited me more then noisy Bariloche. I took a shower, ate some ice creams and had a good dark beer. It was time to relax...
https://picasaweb.google.com/maurycy.sarosiek/ArgentinaNahuelHuapiTraversia#
Monday, 10 I 2011
I headed back to Bariloche (1h - 6 ARS) in the morning to get the rest of my stuff, return the ice-axes and hop on the afternoon bus to Puerto Montt (7h - 120 ARS).
Chevere guy Uwe at Albergue Gaucho - Saludos :)
